Andy Blizzard
What’s that? No – not Brixham, the pretty seaside resort on the English Riviera. BRIXTON. London SW2. For those of you old enough to remember, the scene of The Brixton Riots. You know: The Ghetto.
Some people take their holidays in the same place every year. But me – I go to Brixton on holiday every week - usually on Fridays, but sometimes as much as three times a week.
I go to the market, I go to the swimming pool. I get my hair cut. And when I get back home to suburban Streatham two and three quarter miles away, I feel refreshed. I feel that I have had a real adventure, been somewhere truly exotic.
I first realised that Brixton was different about 20 years ago, when I was visiting from the sticks of outer London. The guy selling drugs outside Kentucky Fried Chicken breathed “Hassssshhhh?” at me just like a bloke thousands of miles away, in an ill-lit Delhi alley.
And now I live just a few miles down the road from it, I have ample opportunity to dip in and sample Brixton’s beautiful edginess.
Brixton’s green lung, Brockwell Park, looks like the Hand of God has mischievously plonked 127 acres of gorgeous rolling countryside in middle of Sarf London if you catch it from the right angle. But it’s also a fine place to hear some pretty urban Brixton conversations.
“So I done Southampton then Glasto and I come back on Monday. No. I was arrested Monday, so I come back Tuesday….” I heard a fat young black girl tell her mobile, while we sat watching our kids play in the sandpit.
I don’t always like slumming it in Brockwell Park. When I run, I go to posh and leafy Dulwich Park, where groups of motivated, well-off mums in expensive athletic gear jog behind pushchairs built like Land Rovers.
But as they jog - or skate round holding ski poles ahead of a week in Val D’Isere - the snatches of conversation they leave in the air are rubbish: well-meaning PTA or charity jargon like: “Not for profit society”, or “equivalent headcount.”
In Brixton, the people I cycle past say dramatic things like “Yeah. That was the time he threatened to shoot me.”
Call me warped, but I prefer Brixton. That’s not to say I would ever dare to live there, even if I could afford it. As an estate agent once put it, seeking to sell my family a Streatham address, it can still be “a bit moody” in Brixton.
No – I approach the place with a strictly tourist mentality: a day trip state of mind.
I like looking at the black and Chinese faces, turbans and dreadlocks squashed together in such close proximity. I like the trendy cinema, the groovy bars, the roti shops and Portugese cafes, the fishmongers, the Latin American butchers, the displays of chaste-looking African films.
I like listening to my foreign barbers talk, especially last week, when a squat, white haired old snipper from Cyprus was telling a customer about a supplier he used to know: “When I had the clap,” he said, “he got me some lovely tables and chairs.”
I thought: “Why did he need tables and chairs when he had VD?” and then realised he hadn’t said clap, but club. It was his charming Brixton accent that had fooled me: “When I had the club, he got me some lovely tables and chairs.”
Even going to Brixton market is like taking a holiday for me: a break from helping build the ever-greater profits of the Great British supermarkets with my money.
And - much as someone from abroad might take advantage of a favourable exchange rate or local living standards to snap up bargains - I take advantage of the fact that most people in Brixton are poorer than me and need cheap places like this to shop. So I snap up huge bags full of astoundingly cheap, fresh and colourful fruit and veg.
Just like I should do when I go on holiday, I feel cheerful and relaxed - because I am getting a good deal. And so I can afford to laugh off the reluctance of people in the market to adopt British habits like queuing as an amusing example of local colour, rather than bloody infuriating bad manners.
So yes, I love Brixton, but I love it like a tourist - which is why I would strongly recommend it to you as a holiday destination if you aren’t going abroad this year.
They even sell I HEART BRIXTON t-shirts there as souvenirs, but thinking I was a local, I always thought it would be uncool of me to wear one.
However, this morning, as I cycled back through Brockwell Park at the end of another holiday, I spotted two Westies licking the beer oozing from a stamped on can of Stella and thought: “I really should buy one of those t-shirts.”
Well, you should - because on a fine afternoon in London, when the sun is low in the sky to the west, a strange and wonderfully puerile phenomenon occurs that might just cheer you up in these depressing times.
The metal panels on the west of the bridge have a cut out motif, featuring hundreds of shamrock-shaped holes with three equally sized leaves: one at the top in the middle, one each at the bottom to left and right.
But when the low sun is angled just so, the shape of one of the leaves becomes elongated so that it forms a point shaped like a phallus, while the other two retain pretty much their original shape and so look like a pair of testicles.
Thus a nice little meat and two veg ensemble is projected onto the pavement of the bridge, quite literally under the feet of the passers-by, and right next to the august cradle of democracy that is the Houses of Parliament.
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I counted five different magpies standing all by themselves when I went running this morning.
This really bothered me, because even a single, single magpie is supposed to be a sign of bad luck, but I see them everywhere in London these days.
As an anxious to please sort of person – I even hate to offend those roadside boards that smile or look sad at you depending on your driving speed – it seems I am forever mouthing: ‘Good morning, Mr Magpie’ at some unaccompanied bird, somewhere.
Then, so as not to cause further offence if the magpie happens to be a girl, or a feminist (a feminist magpie?), I hastily add ‘Ms Magpie’.
You see, I really don’t want to bring down bad karma on my head by saying the wrong thing. But then again, I do find doing the right thing all the time a tad exhausting.
My mum told me it was unlucky to see a single magpie because they mate for life. A single bird, then, is either one whose partner has died or who hasn’t found love yet – and no-one wants that type of luck passed on to them.
Yet, as I plodded round and round the park, seeing more and more magpie singletons, I couldn’t help thinking that this old wives’ tale seems to fly (ahem) in the face of the evidence.
If they really are gagging for long-term commitment, why were there so many standing around on their own?
Maybe what’s happening is that some magpies don’t like always being joined at the hip and need a bit of time for themselves, so they fly off to another part of the park for a while, to clear their heads away from the old man/woman.
Coincidentally, as I write this, ‘November Rain’ is playing on my computer and Axl Rose is making the same point: “Everybody needs some time on their own/Don’t you know you need some time all alone?”
But what if some other magpies – a smaller subset still, this, and an even more nonconformist group – just didn’t want to be in a couple at all? What if they just want out of their stifling relationships?
My guess is that this would be a pretty bold step for a magpie to take, given the way they tend to look at things in, erm, black and white in the magpie fold. These are birds that should seek happiness only within a mating for life scenario, full stop.
Worse still, any magpie thinking of leaving his or her partner would also have to consider what sort of reaction they would get outside their own community.
As I ran, I imagined a comedy sketch where a giant magpie consults a therapist - which I thought it would be funnier if both were obviously actors in deliberately rubbish costumes, with cut-out circles for their faces, underneath unmoving false magpie heads, beaks and glassy eyes.
The first magpie wipes her face with a tissue sticky-taped to her wing by some behind-the-camera production person, and explains to the therapist exactly what stops her from leaving her partner.
“I would just make everyone unhappy”, she moans.
“I’d make him unhappy – think of the shame of it for him. My parents would be devastated. His parents would be devastated.
“But that’s not all. I couldn’t show my beak in public if I left him.
“Everywhere I went and a human saw me, I know I would be making them miserable, too. All that ‘two for joy, one for sorrow’ stuff. It’s doing my head in.”
“But is all that really worth making yourself unhappy for?” the therapist replies. “You have to do what makes you happy; you can’t live your life for other people.”
“All that ‘one for sorrow, two for joy’ stuff is – to put it bluntly, their shit ,” the shrink continues, and mimes picking up an invisible box, holding the tips of her wings parallel in front of her, about a foot apart. Then she mimes putting the box down a wing’s length away and turns back to the other magpie: “You really do have to try and put all that to one side.”
It was just an idle thought. I wasn’t going to act upon it.
I mean, how could I? I just got carried away after a good game of football.
But for just a moment at the weekend, I did contemplate making a Faustian sort of pact with my five-year-old son’s life in return for a couple more years of footy.
I should explain. I have been reborn – in footballing terms at least.
After playing Sunday League stuff for more than 20 years, I began to notice how young and fit the opposition was, and how they outpaced me to every ball. Actually, the only thing about me advancing quickly was my bald patch.
Middle aged spread – reinforced by an exercise regime that involved long hours standing around in parks, anxiously waiting for my toddlers to fall off their first climbing frames and roundabouts – was setting in. So I gave up the game.
Until last season, when a neighbour mentioned he played in a Wednesday five-a-side game with some other 30 and 40-somethings, some of whom played 11-a-side football for a veterans’ team on Saturdays.
Hmmm…veterans’ football. The prospect of competing on level terms, against similarly no-paced and follically challenged old men, had a strange appeal. Or at least it was more inviting than chasing spotty, skilful teenagers who called ‘Catch you later, baldy!’ as they nutmegged me and sped away with the ball.
Once among the half-dead (statistically at least) men, I originally intended taking up my usual centre-back berth but, having failed to displace the 49-year-old incumbent, found myself farmed out to increasingly strange and exotic positions: right back, left back, then finally – in a pinch – left midfield!
And lo! Despite being in my 44th year, despite standing an impossibly lanky six feet six inches tall, and despite a singular lack of ball skills, I was reborn as a tricky winger.
And that is where the trouble started.
At the weekend, again playing at left midfield, I scored the first goal in our 6-0 (six-nil!) win and had – or at least I thought I had - a stormer.
Not only did I notch. I overlapped – nay marauded – down the left, caused havoc with my flick-ons from long-throws, came infield to make important tackles, closed people down, and even showed my versatility by slotting in late on at centre back to ensure a humiliating nixing for the opposition.
I played so well that even the cliché ‘he played out of his skin’ was inadequate. In fact, I was so good that I played out of my boots, realising near the end that the sheer power of my running, the swiftness of my feints and turns, had split my left boot near the sole. The technology just could not contain me.
Which is why I ended up in a shop I shall call SportsBarn on Sunday, thinking evil thoughts about my son.
He needed a pair of football shorts for school; I needed boots. So we repaired to one of those aircraft hangar-like, out-of-town stores that piles sports gear all the way up to their five metre ceilings and always have a sale on.
Once there, I quickly found some cheap boots (at my age, there’s no point buying expensive ones, I reflected gloomily) but, despite the slew of kid-sized replica kits from The Premier League, La Liga, Serie A, the Eredivise etc., we found it hard to find shorts small enough for a five year old.
I thought, fondly, paternally, how Alex was still just a bit young for the football-mad stage of boyhood, and almost wished he was a couple of years older so we could leaf through all those exotic shiny strips together. Father and son.
And that was when the devil on my shoulder proposed the wicked, impossible, yet utterly seductive bargain: “If your son was two years older then he could give those two years to you,” the devil whispered. “Then he’d be seven, at that football-mad stage you love, and you would have two more years of football in you.”
“He doesn’t need those two years as badly as you do – he’s not going to use them to play football, anyway.”
Just for a matter of seconds, I so wished that I could make that deal. Twenty-five years after A-level English, I suddenly understood how Michael Henchard must have felt when he sold his family for five guineas in The Mayor of Casterbridge.
I don’t know what came over me. Hubris, I suppose; the sweet memory of one good game casting a misleading golden glow over my years of sporting non-achievement.
Or maybe it was the fevered atmosphere of the SportsBarn sale; all those chavs snapping up their reduced England shirts and jogger bums, and circling the cut-price trainer displays like hungry sharks around a bleeding seal.
Perhaps it was the unnatural electric crackle in the air made by hundreds of shell-suited people rubbing up against racks groaning with still more nylon and Polyester.
Or maybe I was getting off on the slightly dirty feeling you get by coveting all that cheap produce made under (how can I put this diplomatically?) ethically questionable working conditions abroad. Maybe I just wanted to feel bad about myself: to sink even lower morally, so low that I even considered carving two years from my son’s life to give me a facsimile of eternal youth.
Then, finally, after what seemed like a long time, I recoiled from the thought. “It’s vampirish! Ghoulish!” I told myself. “It’s worse than Shannon Matthews’ mum – at least she only drugged her and hid her for the reward money and used her family allowance to buy booze and fags.”
But what really killed the vile deal for me was not moral indignation but mathematics. I worked out that taking two years away from my age would only make me 41 – and that is hardly the basis for an extended football career, now is it?
And as if I wasn’t feeling low enough already, standing there in SportsBarn, fingering small boys’ nylon shorts, all at once I realised how truly old I was.
I realised that I was into scary big numbers now… numbers it is impossible to extract oneself from without pain - like a rampant credit card bill, a debt to a loan shark wielding a baseball bat, or Alasdair Darling’s projected national debt.
What could I do but accept it? The numbers didn’t lie. I would just have to suck up the fact that I was old...unless…
Unless, like Alasdair, I borrowed big, and took ten years of Alex’s life instead!
Sod morality. Sod everything. I could even handle living with a teenager if it meant I was 33 again!
